Marcus. Belgravia. 15th May 2017

A slightly more up to date review for you all. If you’re there… Hi, welcome. Don't be shy.

 

It’s May, or it was when this outing occurred, and that can mean only one thing! La Donna Mangia is celebrating her 28th Birthday and this year she did it with stars in her eyes. Michelin Stars that is. 

I headed from my refuge in the North, southwards, and again with my loyal companion LuckyGirlKate in tow, we headed for London!

Being huge Frank Turner fans we had already planned to spend the evening drinking, dancing and generally being a little ridiculous but that left the inevitable question. What to do for lunch. Now Mondays can be a tricky day to plan for us all those glorious talented chefs out there get days off too, but they tend to be Sundays and Mondays(if they’re lucky!). Thanks to a good root around OpenTable I found a deal for a 3 course lunch with a glass of sparkling wine for £50.00pp for Marcus at The Berkeley.

2 Michelin Stars, affordable, open for lunch on a Monday and free fizz. Sold. Having eaten at Marcus Waring’s Tredwells in January, I was very excited. (Alas no review for Tredwells, the excitement of seeing Harry Potter and The Cursed Child took over that day, it was very good though. Apologies)

We began our day in typical fashion, stopping into Searcys St Pancras for a breakfast of a bottle of champagne and 1 eggs royale between the two of us. It’s understandable that we awoke with terrible hangovers the next day, but I digress. A short wander later an we found ourselves at The Berkeley a little earlier than anticipated so decided to savour the atmosphere with a drink in The Blue Bar. The cocktails themselves were delicious but were outshone by a miniature carafe of truffled cashews and homemade breadsticks. The cashews were insanely moreish, lightly scented with truffle rather than the ‘hit you in the face’ pungency one would normally expect from truffled anything. They were inhaled. The breadsticks were light and crispy, with almost a hint of curry. 

After our drinks we headed for our lunch. Seated swiftly and sparking wine poured we ordered and held our breath with anticipation. 

Now I will never pretend to know anything about wine, but my companion does and I left the choice to her and the Sommelier. We advised our menu choices and my friend gave her opinions for a bottle of white, it was light and dry with a nice mineral quality. I couldn't tell you what it was and I apologise. Whatever it was it went very well with our meal choices.

It’s always nice to get a little extra and the appearance of 2 amuse bouche was welcomed with open, greedy arms. First was Cornbread, served with a sweetcorn emulsion and a sliver of lardo. A bitesize morsel that was sweet and savoury, the sweetcorn emulsion creamy yet clean and the lard adding a light salty hit. 

The second was Chargrilled Cucumber with Goat Cheese Emulsion, Cucumber Gel, Caramelised Lime and Puffed Wild Rice. The cucumber was lightly smokey thanks to the light char, complimented by the dairy sharpness of the cheese with the clean bright gel and sharp, almost bitter caramelised lime puree with the puffed rice adding an earthy note and hint of crunch.

 

Starters were quick to emerge from the kitchen next. I opted for the Burrata, because well Burrata, with hazelnut puree, dandelion, truffle cream and crispy garlic. Rich would be un understatement. The creamy burrata was contrasted against the crispy almost bitter dandelion and pungent crispy garlic, which although scarce on the plate packed a wallop of intense savoury-ness that any more would have been overkill. The hazelnut puree gave a subtle sweetness with the truffle cream adding a sense of body to the whole dish. 

LGK chose the St Enodoc Asparagus with cured Egg Yolk, Anchovy Dressing and Bresaola. Bresaola is possibly my favourite of the charcuterie board, paired with the shaved asparagus and rich yolk made an excellent pairing with the anchovy dressing adding a punch of saltiness.

Up next the main course. After viewing the menu online, because I’m impatient, this was the course I was most looking forward to.

I selected the Chargrilled Rabbit with Wild Garlic Risotto, Wilted Wild Garlic and a Rabbit and Oat Sauce. Wild garlic is one of my essential spring flavours, its delicate flavour against the rabbit was a harmonious affair. The delicate, light smoked from the chargrilling, flavour of the meat, soft against the creamy rice was simply amazing. The sauce added a light yet rich ‘meatiness’ to the overall dish.

My dining parter opted for the Chicken Breast, with Confit Leg, Borlotti Beans, Roasted Broccoli and Cabbage with a Chicken and Pancetta Consommé. The chicken was beautifully moist and the beans and vegetables brought an earthy feel to the plate. It did feel a little autumnal for a dish served in May but it was delicious. Also the consommé tasted like frazzles but I mean that in the most complimentary way possible!

A pre-dessert appeared as if by magic. A beautifully aromatic Peach Terrine with a Sauternes Sorbet, Thyme Mascarpone Cream and a Sable Breton crumb. 

This alone would be one of my perfect desserts. Peach; Check. Breton; Check. Sauternes; Check. What’s not to like?

My friend could not manage a dessert, I on the other hand am greedy and did. I chose the Sponge with a Vanilla and Yoghurt Mousse, Charred Apricot, Apricot Puree, Baby Fennel and Olive Oil. The mousse was a little more firm than I would have preferred but it was still yummy. The creamy mouse and light sponge was offset by the sharp apricot and the fennel bought a touch of aniseed to the background. 

If that wasn’t enough I was also gifted with a small Hot Chocolate Mousse and a candle for my birthday. It was rich and decadent with the acidity from the fresh raspberry lifting the whole thing. And I ate it all.

All in all my 28th Birthday ended up a triumph. Although after lunch we drank too much in Hyde Park with some random americans, I fell over whilst in the queue for the concert and ended up sitting on the floor for a good period of time. 

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Here's to 29!